Slice Of The Big Apple
Atlantis Opens Manhattan-style Deli
By Dave Preston

Reno gets an honest to goodness New York-style deli in early summer without the humidity and all those speeding yellow taxis.

“The joy of eating a tasty sandwich begins with making one and we are ready to bring an authentic deli to Reno with several items brought in from New York to make sure we are accurate and complete in what we have for our guests,” says Bob Katausky, executive chef of the Atlantis.

The newest addition to the Atlantis’ culinary lineup is Manhattan Deli & Restaurant, a traditional-style delicatessen. The new 160-seat deli will serve New York-style sandwiches and other specialties, with everything from Matzo Ball soup to Corned Beef sandwiches with many kosher selections.

In addition to the restaurant, there will be a full-service deli meat counter where folks can buy choice items to take home. And yes, there will be Hebrew National hot dogs and Polish sausage. Sit down or take it to go, the choice is yours.

The cuisine is what you would expect from a New York deli – big. The Matzo Ball soup has the savory taste of slow-simmered chicken broth with a Matzo Ball the size of a baseball and a rich, hearty flavor that would make any Jewish grandmother proud.

You say you want corned beef? How about piled high on imported-from-New York rye. Or perhaps a Giant Tuna Club, liver with bacon and onions and bone-in ham steak?

A generous Greek Salad with Kalamata olives and feta is served and the kosher offerings of the deli is noted with such delectable offerings as beef tongue, sublime brisket, chopped chicken livers and chicken-in-a-pot that is mouth-watering with noodles and veggies galore. And yes, you will find hard-boiled eggs, Gelfite Fish, Latke, Herring in sour cream and pickled green tomatoes. There’s giant kosher dill on the sandwich plates.

If you’ve still got room, the desserts are a plenty. Scooped ice cream, of course, New York cheesecake, hot apple pie with ice cream, warm bread pudding served with vanilla rum sauce, lemon meringue pie and a double fudge brownie served with ice cream.

Once again, Chef Katausky’s quest to be authentic with the true sign of a Kosher deli are Dr. Browns sodas in root beer, orange, black cherry, cream and, my personal favorite, Cel-Ray.

They’ll make you a root beer float if you ask and Illy coffee, the best of the best, is served. Will there be an egg cream? You’ll have to visit the deli to find out.

For those who want a more standard bill of fare, you find classic cheese and hamburgers, patty melts and a hot turkey platter. House Smoked Baby Back Ribs, Tempura Shrimp hand dipped and grilled Petrale Sole and Salmon are served.

If I were a betting man, the deli at the Atlantis could quickly be in the company of the famous Carnegie Deli in midtown Manhattan, considered to be among the most visited restaurants of its type in the city.

When you visit Manhattan Deli & Restaurant, keep in mind what Richard Shepard, late correspondent for the New York Times, said about Jewish food: “When you eat it, 72 hours later you’re hungry again.”

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