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Truckee: Old Town with
a Bright Future
 Truckee is
one of those rare towns with a fascinating past and a
bright future. There are too many stories of towns built on
industries that were strong in their day but burned out like
shooting stars once modern technologies came along to replace
them. One example is the old town of Boca, just a few miles from
downtown Truckee. Boca was built along the Truckee River in the
late 1800s on timber, ice and beer, but when the trees ran out,
the brewery burnt down, and modern refrigeration techniques
replaced natural ice harvesting in the mid-1900s, the town was
dismantled, the river was dammed, and the town of Boca is now
covered with water. Boca’s watery demise is not all sad; it gave
life to Boca Reservoir, which is alive and well as a recreation
area with spectacular scenery, unlimited water sports, hiking
and biking trails, and also happens to be a nesting ground for
Bald Eagles.
Truckee has
fared better than Boca, with a rich and colorful history that
includes the first migration to California by white settlers
(including the infamous Donner Party) in the mid-1800s, the rise
of the lumber industry in 1866, the arrival of the railroad in
1867, the motion picture industry in 1910, and the incorporation
of the Town of Truckee in 1993.
Today,
Truckee retains much of its Old West character and remains as
vibrant as ever. The lure of history in this well-preserved,
quaint town, along with charming shops, galleries, delicious
cuisine and cozy inns, have given rise to tourism as Truckee’s
current mainstay. However, the railroad still survives today,
and the trains remind residents and visitors everyday of their
long heritage in Truckee as they proudly whistle their way
through town.
 Truckee, with
a current population of 14,000, is growing more rapidly than
any other town in the Tahoe Basin. Its natural beauty and
year-round recreational opportunities, along with job
opportunities and a small-town feel, have lured many away from
more congested urban areas. Also, many second homeowners have
made Truckee their primary residence. If careful planning for
growth and protection of what draws people in the first place
continues, Truckee will thrive as much in the future as it has
over the past century.
If you go,
stop into the Chamber of Commerce in the old train depot in the
center of old town, pick up a historic walking tour map and
check out some famous landmarks including:
Rocking Stone (next to the Veteran’s
Hall on High Street above downtown Truckee) - Although the
17-ton stone no longer rocks, it is one of 25 known rocking
stones in the world. Local Native Americans used this rock for
drying their food and holding ceremonies as far back as 15,000
years ago. One of the early tribes painstakingly chipped away
the rock to flatten the top and curve the bottom so animals
couldn’t climb up and eat their food.
Truckee’s Old Jail (on the north
corner of Jibboom and Spring Streets) – Built in 1875 out of
native stone, the brick was added in 1901. This is one of the
West’s oldest jails in continuous use until 1964 (open weekends
in summer only). The Old Jail is also home of the Truckee
Historical Society.
First and Last Chance Saloon (on the
corner of Spring Street and Donner Pass Road) – This was the
last saloon heading west and the first heading east. The
building was once Truckee’s original telephone office. It is now
occupied by Down by the River clothing and gifts for men
and women.
Sierra Tavern Building (on the north
side of Donner Pass Road in historic downtown) – Built as a
three-story building in 1928, a fourth floor was added in 1938.
This was once the location of the law office of one of Truckee’s
most famous citizens, Charles McGlashan, who wrote the history
of the Donner Party (pick up a copy of the book and see his
world-famous butterfly collection exhibited at the Donner
Museum in Truckee, (530)582-7892).
Now housed in
this building is the Sierra Tavern Inn, White Buffalo
Southwestern jewelry and gifts, Gratitudes gifts and home
décor, and La Galleria gifts from around the world.
Cabona’s (on the north side of Donner
Pass Road east of the Sierra Tavern Building) – Founded in 1918,
Cabona’s is the oldest retail establishment on Commercial Row.
Its founder Dave Cabona, originally sold fishing tackle,
appliances and general merchandise. The east side of the store
was a coffee shop. A coffee cup is still embedded in the
sidewalk.
The current
Cabona’s, a men’s and women sportswear store, continues
its retail traditions.
The
Capitol (on the north side of Donner
Pass Road towards the east end of town) – Built in 1872 by
William Hurd, it was originally Hurd’s Saloon and Hall, then
used by the Piper Opera Company and later by the County Court.
The Capitol Building now houses The Pharmacy, a luxurious
women’s body, bath, lingerie and jewelry store.
Rex
Hotel Building (on the north side of
Donner Pass Road near the east end of town) – Built over 100
years ago, this building was converted to a hotel with
steam-heated rooms in 1913. During prohibition, the lower floor
was a speakeasy called the “Silver Mirror.” Joanne’s Stained
Glass & Gallery now occupies the ground floor of this former
hotel.
Stone Garage (on the south corner of
Jibboom and Bridge Streets) – This building is on the location
of Truckee’s first building, Gray’s Station. The current stone
building was contructed around 1911 and served as a carriage
house and blacksmith shop. Representative of the new Truckee,
Totally Board, a snowboard shop, operates out of the Stone
Garage.
The
Truckee Hotel (on the north corner of
Bridge Street and Donner Pass Road) – Built as the American
Hotel in 1873, this structure was known as the Whitney House
before the 1900s and has housed many businesses since. In 1909,
the structure burned, but was rebuilt on the same spot. It
became the Alpine Riverside Hotel in the 1950s for the 1960
Winter Olympics in Squaw Valley. The hotel was renovated and
reopened as the Truckee Hotel in 1977. The Truckee Hotel
still exists and alongside Moody’s Bistro and Lounge,
renowned for its innovative cuisine and live jazz. Chase
International Real Estate is also a new tenant.
 The
Train Depot (on the south side of
Donner Pass Road in the heart of downtown) – The depot was built
in 1900 for the first transcontinental railroad line which
reached Truckee on April 1, 1868. The depot now houses the
Amtrak and Greyhound stations, the Truckee Chamber
of Commerce and Visitor Center, Jimmy Beans Wool
and a Local Artist Studio and Glassblowing shop.
Chinese Herb Shop (south of the
railroad tracks and Truckee River on Bridge Street) – Built in
1878, it was the cornerstone of Truckee’s Chinatown, the second
largest Chinese community on the west coast (Chinese immigrants
helped build the railroad in the West).
It was
also the home of the Donner Soda Label, part of the Truckee Soda
Works. It is currently under renovation, while carefully
preserving its historic features.
In addition
to the old, there’s much that’s relatively new and well worth a
visit in Truckee. Fine restaurants abound. One example is the
unique Dragonfly, serving Pan Asian California cuisine
with flair. Owner/Chef Billy McCullough blends the unique
flavors of Asia with the freshness of California’s best
products. It’s an unbeatable combination. Located upstairs at
10118 Donner Pass Road downtown, Dragonfly was voted Truckee’s
“Best Kept Dining Secret.” Lunch and dinner served. For
reservations call (530)587-0557.
Or try
popular OB’s Pub & Restaurant at 10046 Donner Pass Road.
There are so many items on the menu that there’s surely
something to hit the spot of everyone in the group.
They also
have great local and out-of-town talent playing in the bar
several nights a week.
OB’s is open
for lunch and dinner. For reservations or information call
(530)587-4164.
Truckee’s
newest gourmet deli-style restaurant is Piper’s Patisserie,
open for casual breakfast, lunch and dinners. They serve fresh
baked goods, soups, salads, rotisserie chicken, dinners to go,
special occasion cakes and they have an extensive wine
selection.
Shopping is
also a popular pastime in Truckee. The Old West atmosphere and
central row of shops in historic downtown, called Commercial
Row, makes you feel like you’re walking down memory lane as you
walk from shop to shop. There is a large selection of small
businesses with unique character and merchandise that make
shopping in Truckee a joy.
An example is
Bob Robert’s Jewelers at 10056 Donner Pass Road. This
unique jeweler specializes in whimsical “people art,” tiny
figures made of gold and other precious metals.
They also
sell fine art and gifts. For more information, call
(530)587-5757.
Other fun
downtown shops include: Schöne Sachen women’s clothing
and gifts, Sweets Homemade Candies, Tahoe Candle, Cooking
Gallery and Vrooman Woodcarvings & Wildlife Gallery.
A day of
shopping and dining in Truckee wouldn’t be complete if you
didn’t wander off the main drag. There are new retailers on
Donner Pass Road just outside Commercial Row as well as Jibboom
and West River Streets to the north and south of downtown.
Coeur de Lion, just west of downtown,
specializes in unique and collectible men’s jewelry. J.L.
Smith fine furnishings and home décor and The Pour House,
a boutique wine purveyor, are new businesses that make Jibboom
St. worth a detour.
Dolls Gone Wrong is a new funky
women’s clothing store on West River Street. Just across the
street, stop in for a fresh ahi sandwich that’s to die for at
The Fish Station.
Or, if you
have a hankering for the only authentic philly cheesesteak in
town, head over to The Cheesesteak Factory in the same
plaza as Albertson’s just off highway 89 South.
Before
heading out of town, check out Northstar-at-Tahoe’s new
village off Highway 267. They are undergoing a multi-million
dollar renovation and expansion, so there will be lots of new
developments there this winter, continuing into next year. There
will be a season of fun at Northstar and throughout Truckee this
winter. To find out about upcoming events for the holidays and
beyond, visit
www.truckee.com and click on Events.
Truckee is a
town with a truly fascinating past and a future that looks
brighter than ever. Come see for yourself what’s old – and new!
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