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Mario’s Portofino
 Our
region attracts talented chefs from all over the world. When
classically trained chef, Roberto Gulizia, of Milan,
opened Mario’s Portofino almost a decade ago, he not only
filled a niche for good Italian food, he also offered a choice
of dining styles. When we arrived, we saw that the central theme
of the restaurant was elegant European with a family atmosphere.
The center of the dining room was filled with long tables for
groups and parties, while the outer ring of tables by the
windows was a row of romantic little booths. Regulars abound at
this popular spot. As we waited at the entrance, Roberto’s wife
and partner, Mindi, enthusiastically greeted a party
ahead of us that had driven from Carson City. Roberto waved to
them from the kitchen and the party was escorted to their table.
Mindy then showed us to a comfortable booth that gave a feeling
of intimacy in the midst of a filled dining room.
 The
table was set with a white tablecloth, silver, folded white
napkins and cruets of oil and vinegar. Our server, Cecilia
Llamas, gave us a cheerful greeting, offered us cocktails
and told us of the evening’s scallop entrée special. The menu
featured a wide array of dishes separated into more than six
categories. After ordering, we were brought a basket of
delicious, rustic bread. We started with the polenta casareccia
appetizer. A large slab of tender polenta was lightly browned
and topped with a heavenly blend of sautéed fresh porcini
mushrooms in a delicious gorgonzola cheese sauce. Once we easily
finished that course, we looked at the wine list and noticed
several varietals offered by the glass. Cecilia brought us
glasses of ’04 Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio from
Italy and a ’04 Bogle Sauvignon Blanc from Monterey and Amador
Counties. Next, we tried the baked provolone appetizer. The
aromas were tantalizing when the dish was placed in front of us.
A slice of lightly smoked provolone cheese was baked in a
shallow dish with artichoke hearts and sun-dried tomatoes. The
cheese was bathed in a light white wine and butter sauce. The
dish was what I imagined Northern Italy’s version of Swiss
raclette to be, but more sophisticated. It was a savory dish
that went perfectly with our wines. We decided to try the
pancetta-wrapped prawns and bruschetta on a future visit and
instead chose the beef carpaccio for our last appetizer. Wafer
thin slices of filet mignon were fanned over the entire plate,
and the beef was garnished very simply with capers, large shreds
of Parmesan cheese and a lightly dressed arugula salad. We were
impressed, and appreciated how Roberto’s touch was so light with
all the dishes.
 Our
Caesar salad course arrived shortly after our appetizer plates
were cleared. The refreshing salad was served pre-cut and
dressed on a chilled plate. Cecilia offered us cracked pepper
and fresh, Parmesan cheese over our salads. Next we tried one of
the many pasta courses. We identified the cannelloni and the
porcini risotto for that future visit we were already planning,
and went with the lighter-sounding capelli d’Angelo Lena, which
was a plate of steaming hot angel hair pasta tossed with Italian
sausage, mushrooms and marinara sauce. The sausage was excellent
in quality and the overall flavor of the dish was wonderful.
Cecilia brought us a bottle of ’02 Noceto Sangiovese from the
Sierra foothills in Amador County. It was a soft, luscious wine
with flavors of cherry and oak.
 Our
entrées arrived with perfect timing and were served on hot
plates. My companion tried the veal saltimbocca and I ordered
the pollo agrumi, or sautéed chicken breast with a lemon and
orange sauce. Both the veal and the chicken were, once again,
light, and
Chef Roberto
wowed us with his flavor sense and minimal use of butter or
cream. The veal was served Northern Italian style with
proscuitto, fresh sage leaves and a white wine sauce. We both
enjoyed the mixture of sautéed vegetables that was on our
plates. It included squash, carrots and potatoes. My
chicken breast was tender like the veal and the lemon-orange
sauce was
 a perfect complement to the meat. Some of the other
entrée items on the menu were sautéed salmon, calamari steak,
chicken topped with Fontina cheese and ham, stuffed pork chop,
marinated New York steak and rack of lamb.
After a grand
dinner, we sipped cappuccinos as Cecilia told us about the
house-made desserts. She recommended the tira mi su and the
crème caramel, but said her favorite was the coconut cheesecake.
We took her personal suggestion and added an order
of spumoni with it. The graham cracker crusted cheesecake was
not at all heavy, as most coconut versions tend to be, and we
finished every bite. The spumoni, served in a tall glass dish
was a good example of how owner Roberto procures the best
products for his kitchen, whether imported or domestic. After
dinner, the staff bid us a warm good night and we left feeling
as special as their regular customers.
With
a location across the street from the Peppermill Casino, and
their big, well-lit sign, Mario’s Portofino is one of easiest
restaurants to find in Reno. It’s at
2740 S. Virginia St. Dinner service begins at 5 p.m. six
days a week (closed Mondays). The have a full bar. For
information, reservations or banquet and catering inquiries,
call (775)825-7779.
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